New England Clam Chowder
A proper white chowder — thickened with potato starch and a light roux rather than a bucket of cream — with sweet clams, salt pork and a slick of butter on top. Thick enough to hold a cracker upright.
Method
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If using fresh clams, bring the wine to a boil in a large pot, add the clams, cover, and steam for 4 to 6 minutes until they open. Discard any that stay shut.
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Lift out the clams, pull the meat from the shells and chop it coarsely. Strain the cooking liquid through muslin to remove grit and reserve it — you need about 500 ml, topped up with water if short.
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Render the salt pork in the rinsed pot over medium heat for 8 minutes until crisp. Lift out and reserve.
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Add the butter, onion and celery to the fat and sweat for 8 minutes until soft and translucent, without colouring.
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Stir in the flour and cook 2 minutes, then gradually whisk in the reserved clam liquid.
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Add the potatoes, bay and thyme, and simmer gently for 15 minutes until the potatoes are tender and beginning to break at the edges.
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Crush a few potato cubes against the side of the pot to thicken the chowder naturally.
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Add the milk and cream and warm through without boiling, then season with salt and white pepper.
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Stir in the chopped clams and the crisp pork and heat for 2 minutes only. Serve with a knob of butter melting on top, chives and crackers.
Chef’s Tips
- Strain the clam liquid through muslin. There is always sand, and one gritty spoonful ruins the bowl.
- Never boil the chowder once the dairy is in — it will curdle and split.
- Chowder is better on the second day, once the potato starch has fully hydrated.
Pairing Suggestions
- A crisp Muscadet or a cold lager
- Serve with oyster crackers and a green salad
- Finish with apple pie
Storage & Reheating
Refrigerate 3 days. Reheat gently below a simmer. Do not freeze — the potatoes go grainy and the dairy separates.
Nutritional Highlights
Per serving, calculated from the ingredient list. Treat these as an estimate — brands and cuts vary.